Chulacanas – Nestled in the shadow of Mount Vicus, Chulacanas is the last refuge of the fertile plains before they give way to the rise of the Andes to the west. It has been the center of civilizations for millennia but now it is a secondary town in a little known province. For decades, Senora Maria Candecaria has cooked glorious concoctions over the wood fire at her restaurant here, La Canducha. Her fried pescada frito and ceviche were a repast worthy of some of the best restaurants I’ve ever dined at.